Southern Right Whale...
Every year between June and December, the Golfo Nuevo and the Gulfo San Jose off Peninsula Valdes, a spearhead of land jutting into the Atlantic Ocean in southern Argentina, become the breeding grounds for the once endangered Southern Right Whale (Eubalena Australis). Over 2,000 whales have been documented by the Whale Conservation Institute and Ocean Alliance near the peninsula, which together with its two bays, was designated a World Heritage Site in 1999, while Argentina declared the Southern Right Whale a Natural Monument in 1984.

The Right Whale to Hunt
The Southern Right Whale, which grows up to 18 meters long and weighs up to 100 tons, is mostly black with distinctive callosities (rough patches of skin) across their heads. They were so-called as in ‘right’ by 19th-century whalers who found them easier to hunt. They were slow and could be speared with hand-held harpoons. Also they often swam close to shore and floated when dead due to their low density blubber, which constitutes 40 per cent of their body weight. With these characteristics it was considered the right whale to hunt and as a result their numbers declined dramatically at the height of whaling industry – the Right Whale features in the Herman Melville classic Moby Dick. In 1935 the International Whaling Commission gave it international protection which theoretically banned future hunting. Since then, its population is estimated to have increased by seven per cent per annum. Numbers are now estimated to be between 7,000 and 8,000.

Whale Watching off Peninsula Valdes
The Southern Right Whale comes to Peninsula Valdes to reproduce. During the courting ritual, a few kilometres off shore, males twist, turn and vault into the air crashing back down to sea. Males can become aggressive when vying to seduce the same female. Initially, the female will desist eventually giving way to her preferred suitor. The male Right Whale, with up to 500 kilograms of sperm in each testicle, can court several females. Coitus takes place in a vertical position, facing one another, with heads above the water. Whale cows reproduce every three years, gestation is 12 months and a whale calf measures around five metres long when born. The whales mate and calve off the peninsula, but during this time they don’t feed. When they do leave they are already weak and hungry having used up most of their up bodily reserves to produce milk for their young. By December they start heading for the rich-krill feeding grounds of the South Atlantic.

One of the best places to observe this gentle marine giant is from Golfo Nuevo just off the tiny coastal village of Puerto Pirámides on Peninsula Valdes. Here, you can take any one of a number of boats from several companies. Boats include Zodiacs, speed boats or larger launches. You may seem closer in a Zodiac but from a height you can gage exactly how enormous these magnificent creatures are. Boats always appear packed so be sure to arrive on time so as to get a good position. Not surprisingly, watching these enormous marine mammals cavorting with their calves is an incredible and unforgettable experience. It seems the whales have as much curiosity for us as we have for them – as long as their young are not in danger, both parties seem to thoroughly enjoy the encounter with each other.

Although the whales can be seen from June to December as they arrive from more southerly waters, some of the best months are from September to November. In fact, it is the only place in the world where it is possible to practice professional whale watching. There are only a few tourism companies permitted to operate. In bad weather the boats simply don’t go out so you maybe unlucky unless you plan hanging around for a few days. If you want to observe their arrival from afar go to www.chubut.gov.ar/ballenas.

Orcas (Killer Whales)
Orcas have been wandering the waters around Peninsula Valdes for decades, but generally come closer to shore during the elephant seal and sea lion breeding seasons. The orca waits for an opportune moment and then charges like a submarine creating a wave around its head as it chases a seal pup and catches it deftly between its powerful jaws. This all seems to take just a fraction of a second as it slides up on to the shingle beach then reverses skillfully back into the ocean. Such behaviour has been called ‘intentional stranding’ and is the most exceptional and extraordinary show to see, if you’re lucky and have time on your side.

Two pods made up of some seven adult Orcas and three juveniles come here every year. The old male, Mel, who starred in the BBC Blue Planet series as well as the National Geographic documentary Killer Whales: Wolves of the Sea is about 40 years old. The whales come to feed on young seal pups born in January and February and only strand themselves in calmer waters before and after high tide. During such conditions they patrol the beach waiting to attack the unwary and inexperienced seal pup. Not all their attempts are successful. There are only two-known locations in the world where this type of orca behavior has been observed. At Crozet Island in the South Sea the orcas are helped by a river which pushes seal pups in their path while they patrol the beach line unlike at Peninsula Valdes, where the stranding is 100 per cent intentional. However, reports suggest that the number of orcas proficient at stranding is dwindling so this phenomenon might just soon disappear altogether. The stranding beach, some 80 km from Puerto Pirámides, cannot be accessed by the public, but you can observe from the cliff tops above. Beach access requires a permit which is issued by the local government.

Peninsula Valdés is a veritable wildlife sanctuary - besides these two great whale species, it’s a breeding ground for southern elephant seals and sea lions. There are penguins, dusky dolphins not to mention the inquisitive armadillo, guanacos (camelid), rheas and a multitude of birdlife.

Getting to Peninsula Valdes
The nearest airport at Trelew is just over 70km from Puerto Madryn. Puerto Pirámides is a further 100km from Puerto Madryn, following Route 1 and turning on to Route 2 for Puerto Pirámides. If you don’t go by car (Puerto Pirámides is the only place that sells fuel on the peninsula), then you can go as part of an excursion, hire a remis or taxi or go by bus. Mar y Valle departs from Puerto Madryn bus station for the peninsula at 9.30am returning from Puerto Pirámides at 6pm. Whale watching tickets can be purchased from agenices such as  Nieve Mar, Huinca Travel, Flamenco, Chucao Viajes y Turismo on 25 de Mayo 656 and Tehuelche Tour on A Jenkins 354 in Puerto Madryn.

Entrance Fee to the Peninsula
Peninsula Valdes is $10 (US$3) for nationals and $35 (US$12) for foreigners and $18 (US$6) for children. It is worth stopping at the Interpretation Centre about 20 km beyond the main entrance on the neck of the peninsula. Each year Puerto Pirámides has more and more accommodation. If you want to spend more time on the peninsula then it would be better to stay here.  For further details, telephone the Municipality of Puerto Pirámides on +54 (0) 296 549 5048.