To the south of the Beagle Channel is Isla Navarino which is in Chilean territory. It is the largest island south of the Isla Grande and aside from a few estancias and the small town of Puerto Williams, the world’s most southerly settlement, Isla Navario is a large uninhabited wilderness, once home to the indigenous Yamana (Yaghan), evident through the countless archeological sites dotted around the island – one of which is thought to be some 3,000 years old.

Puerto Williams is tiny. Aside from the Chilean naval presence, there are a few restaurants and for the most part simple accommodation as well as a small museum on Comandante Aragy 1, the Museo Martin Guisinde, also known as the Museo del Fin del Mundo. It charts the area’s history through a collection of photographs and maps and also gives details of various historic voyages as well as information on local fauna and flora. Open Mon-Thur 9am-1pm and 2.30pm-7.15pm, Sat-Sun 2.30pm-6.30pm. Just east of town is Villa Ukika, where the last Yamana descendants live.

Most people come here to either visit the world’s most far flung southerly settlement or to trek the Circuito de los Dientes, a 70 km-hike around the island which takes about five days. Alternatively for spectacular views of the Beagle Channel, the climb to Cerro Bandera is only a three or four-hour round trip. West of town along the waterfront there are countless bays and at Bahia Virginia there is a huge mound of seashells on the beach, evidence of a Yamana encampment.