The Centro Civico at the heart of Bariloche is a pretty plaza surrounded by attractive alpine-style buildings of timber and stone which overlook Lago Nahuel Huapi. It’s a gathering place where you can have your photo taken with one of many St Bernards. At the centre stands the equestrian stature of General Julio Roca, the last of the conquistadors, who finally defeated the remaining indigenous peoples of the Pampas, largely Mapuches and Tehuelches, in the 19th century Campaign of the Desert.

Also on the plaza is the Museo de la Patagonia which recounts General Roca’s campaign. His uniform is on display as well as Mapuche lances together with a plethora of other indigenous artefacts. Open Tues-Fri 10am-12.30pm and 2pm-7pm, Mon and Sat 10am-1pm. Tel: +54 (0) 2944 422330. The Museo de la Asociación Paleontológica Bariloche on Avenida 12 de Octubre and Sarmiento conserves fossils found in the area, such as an ichthyosaur and a 22-million-year-old shark’s jaw as well as other fauna and flora fossils of the province. Tel: +54 (0) 15 611210.

The Catedral Nuestra Senora del Nahuel Huapi, built in 1946, overlooks the lakeshore while the main thoroughfare Calle Bartolome Mitre boasts what could be the highest number of chocolate shops in one street. There is also a fascinating Museo del Chocolate Fenoglio on Avenida Bustillo 1200. It tells the story of the first chocolate makers, the process of chocolate making and you can actually see them at work everyday except Sat and Sun. Open Jan-Feb, July-Aug Mon-Sun 10am-8pm, Jun, Sept, Oct, Dec Tues-Sun 10am-1pm and 3pm-8pm, Mar-May and Nov Tues-Sun 3pm-7pm. Tel: +54 (0) 2944 439204. It also has a small cafe and a shop where you stock up on chocolates.