Founded by Francisco de Aguirre in 1553 Santiago del Estero is the oldest city in Argentina although since then several natural disasters have destroyed much of the old colonial architecture. It is also capital of one of Argentina’s poorer provinces of the same name, Santiago del Estero, which is largely covered by pampas, salt flats and arid Chaco. The province’s most important mainstay is cotton which is grown in flooded plantations.

Santiago del Estero is both hot and humid so it’s little surprise that Santiaguenos are still prone to an early afternoon siesta during which time most places tend to close. The shady Plaza Libertad in the centre is also home to the cathedral, which has been rebuilt five times. However, by far the most attractive building here with splendid arches and majestic columns is the Jefatura de Policia which is not unlike the cabildo (town hall) of Buenos Aires.

Thousands of Argentine pilgrims visit the city each year to view one of two copies of the Turin Shroud on display in Iglesia Santo Domingo. The Museo de Ciencias Antropologicas y Naturales Emilio y Duncan Wagner boasts a wonderful if not slightly higgledy-piggledy collection of pre-Hispanic artefacts, fossil displays, woven crafts and ancient ceramics.