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The Boedo Barrio
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Boedo is old, historical, breathes tango and is pure Bohemia. It’s one of those barrios in Buenos Aires which is not frequented by tourists. In fact many guidebooks don’t even mention it. But they should. Boedo is packed with quaint old cafes, bars and restaurants, once patronised by prominent portenos, writers and artists alike. The barrio falls within Avenida Caseros, Avenida La Plata, and Avenida Independencia and is named after Doctor Mariano Joaquín Boedo, an independence advocate.
It was on the famous intersection of Boedo with San Juan where tango lyricist Homero Manzi compiled his sonnet Sur about the city’s poor “southies”. Unfortunately, that bar is now a touristy tango spot. But that aside, there are plenty of bona fide bohemian places to eat, drink, play-watch and tango, including Timbre 4, a theatrical playhouse where La Omision de la Familia Coleman was first performed in 2005 (for reservations see www.alternativateatral.com) and Pan y Arte at Boedo 880, which serves traditional fare from the western city of Mendoza and stages live tango. Opposite Pan y Arte at Boedo 857 is Café Margot, a lovely old French-style coffee house.
In accordance with true Argentine tradition, the barrio also boasts its own football club, the Club Atlético San Lorenzo de Almagro, which was founded in 1908. It is one of the country’s five most famous teams and its red and blue colours can be seen hanging from many buildings in the barrio. San Lorenzo’s old stadium nicknamed the gasómetro was knocked down to make way for a supermarket. One of the team's favourite haunts was one of Boedo’s oldest bars, Café Dante, which sadly closed a few years ago.
On Avenida Boedo at number 870 is the Museo Monte de Piedad, which recounts the history of the Banco Ciudad, from when it started as a municipal pawnbroker to when it turned into a modern-day city bank. Here too is where the notorious Café Biarritz, a lefty hangout and meeting place for the Boedo Literary Group, has been recreated. Off Avenida Boedo itself are some finely restored 19th century townhouses.
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