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Getting Around Buenos Aires

(Reads: 1009, since 01-Oct-2008)


Buenos Aires is big and sprawling but it has a comprehensive network of public transport so it’s easy to get around. Besides walking, which is perfectly feasible for many barrios, there are lots of options. The buses are cheap and cheerful and run to outer neighbourhoods too, but be prepared to hang on as they driving is somewhat mad. Then again, there are the city’s taxis, which are comfortable, quick and relatively cheap or you can hop on Latin America’s oldest underground railway, nicknamed the Subte (from the word subterraneo), which serves the city centre and the northern part of the Buenos Aires, the only subway system in the country. Or some train routes work reasonably well within the city and to the suburbs.

On Foot
One of the best ways to really take in Buenos Aires is on foot. It’s large but if you’ve time and a good pair of comfortable walking shoes then it’s easy to get your orientation. Buenos Aires was designed on a grid-style system so all you need to do is to go one of many tourist information centres for a fold-away map or you can purchase a good map at one of the many newsstands and kiosks.

By Bus
Once you’ve figured out the buses they are a relatively easy and cheap way to get around although you won’t always get a seat. There are colectivos and diferencial buses. Colectivos run throughout the city and to the suburbs - tickets prices start at 80 centavos – 24 hours a day with fewer buses at night. Diferencials are fewer, stop less and more expensive but you’re far more likely to get a seat. Drivers are not particularly friendly or helpful so if you choose buses as your preferred mode of transport it’s worth checking out the route system. Visit the Los Colectivos website for more information on routes or buy a Guia T or Guia Lumi from any kiosk. Drivers are paid with cash so it’s good to carry change.

By Subte
The Subte is fast although late at night it might be preferable to call a taxi. Like anywhere in the world if you can avoid peak hour traffic you’ll be more comfortable. Many stations are attractively decorated with murals and paintings and aspiring actors and musicians perform for passersby. On the other hand some stations are a bit rundown and shabby and the trains, although frequent, are not particularly comfortable or quiet. Because of the way the Subte is designed, journeys might involve at least one change.

Single-ride tickets cost 70¢ to anywhere in the city or you can purchase Subtepass tickets at station entrances in denominations of one, two, five, 10 and 30 journeys (a multi-ticket is no cheaper). The Subte opens at Mon-Sat 5am-11pm, Sun 8am-10pm. Directions at the Subte stations are given by the final destination so you’ll need to check that before embarking. Tourist offices and the Subte stations have free maps. Old original carriages with wooden interiors and soft lighting shake along Line A although they may soon be replaced.

Five Subte Lines:
Línea A - Plaza de Mayo to Primera Junta
Línea B –Leandro Alem Station to Federico Lacroze
Línea C - connects the train stations of Retiro and Constitución running through all the other lines
Línea D - Catedral Station on Plaza de Mayo to Congreso de Túcuman in Belgrano
Línea E - Bolívar Station on Plaza de Mayo to Plaza de los Virreyes in Chacabuco

For more information check out  the Metrovias or Subte websites. 

By Train
Portenos aren’t too impressed by the shabby condition of their trains although some routes within the city and to the outlying areas are relatively efficient. The main station is Retiro which has three lines – Mitre, Belgrano and San Martin - in separate buildings. Trenes de Buenos Aires (Tel: +54 (0) 11 4317 4407) runs services to the outlying suburbs including Tigre.

Ferrovias runs services to the northwestern suburbs on the Belgrano line while Metropolitano operates the San Martin line with trains to Palermo, Chacarita, Devoto, Hurlingham and Pilar.  From Constitucion Metropolitano operates services to La Plata, Ezeiza, Ranelagh and Quilmes. Tel: +54 (0) 11 4304 0028.  Metrovias has trains to General Lemos from Federico Lacroze Urquiza. Tel: +54 (0) 11 45555 1616. TBA operates suburban services to Caballito, Flores, Merlo, Lujan, Mercedes and Lobos from Once station. For information, tel: +54 (0) 11 4861 0043.

By Taxi
Taxis in Buenos Aires are black with yellow roofs. Those which are unoccupied will have a small red libre sign on the left of the windscreen. Generally, taxi drivers are trustworthy and amiable enough, though some are rather bent on breaking all speed records and the rules of the road.

However, there have been reports of taxi drivers speeding up the meter or colluding to rob passengers. Be careful. Ensure you look at the meter when you get in so that it starts on the correct fare. Meters generally start at just under three pesos. Drivers don’t expect tips but won’t be at all offended if you round up the fare which also avoids the ‘no change’ problem. Approximate fares include five pesos to San Telmo, nine pesos to Palermo, six pesos to Recoleta and 11 pesos to Belgrano. If you’re unsure about hailing a taxi on the street then call a radio taxi, which have the company name on the side of the car. Radio taxis are considered to be safer and more comfortable than the black and yellow and you are less likely to be cheated. Ask your hotel for a reputable company name.

Alternatively, you can call a remise (minicab) taxi which have no markings but have become increasingly popular over the past few years and tend to be good for longer journeys, although you can call them for journeys within the city, too. Remises charge flat fares and are generally cheaper than radio taxis. Also you can rent them for the day if you want.

Some Radio Taxi Companies
Radio Taxi Pidalo. Tel: +54 (0) 11 4956 1200   
Radio Taxi Premium. Tel: +54 (0) 11 4374 6666   
Radio Taxi Sur. Tel: +54 (0) 11 4638 2000   
Onda Verde. Tel: +54 (0) 11 4867 0000   
Radio Taxi 5 Minutos. Tel: +54 (0) 11 4523 1200   
Radio Taxi Diez. Tel: +54 (0) 11 4585 5007   
Cirtax Taxi. Tel: +54 (0) 11 4504 8440   
City Taxi. Tel: +54 (0) 11 4585 5544   
Su Taxi. Tel: +54 (0) 11 4635 2500   
Radio Ciudad. Tel: +54 (0) 11 4923 7444

Remise Companies
Tres Sargentos. Tel: +54 (0) 11 4312 0057   .
Remises Le Coq. Tel: +54 (0) 11 4964 2000     
Remises Blue. Tel: +54 (0) 11 4777 8888   
Remises Del Sol. Tel: +54 (0) 11 4702 8070   

By Car
Having a car in Buenos Aires might be more bother than it's worth as it is so easy to get around by public transport. However, if for whatever reason you do end up driving, do so defensively. Porteños tend to drive fast, weaving their way through traffic with little thought for others. Parking can be a problem in BA. However, there is a lot of underground parking and many private places. A blue sign with an E stands for estacionamiento (parking).


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