The legendary Ruta Cuarenta - Ruta 40, RN-40 - runs for over 5,000 kilometres from Cieneguillas, a small village west of La Quiaca near the Bolivian border in the province of Jujuy in the far north of Argentina to the far south at Cabo Virgenes in the province of Santa Cruz. For a large part it runs parallel to the Cordillera de los Andes and is often long unpaved stretches of gravel (ripio). As one of the world’s longest routes and the longest road in Argentina it passes through some spectacular scenery and some of the most isolated provinces of the country. Over the years what constitutes Ruta 40 has changed somewhat in order to make it more attractive to those eager tourists wishing to complete its length. It now passes by over 20 rivers, 20 national parks, a multitude of crystalline lakes, in view of majestic volcanic peaks, through pretty Andean villages and past massive expanses of sheep rearing estancias; at one point it reaches a height of more than 5,000 metres at Abra de Acay in the northern altiplano, one of the highest sections of road in the world.

In the north the Cuarenta leads through arid mountain terrain via small settlements such as Londres, founded in the mid 16th century, and Belen famous for its wonderful ponchos made of llama, vicuna or sheep’s wool. West of Salta the Cuarenta passes by an amazing feat of engineering, the Polvorilla viaduct along which chugs the Tren a las Nubes (Train to the Clouds). The road meanders south through La Rioja province and on to the city of San Juan where the vineyards begin to dominate the terrain. Here it becomes more trafficky towards the city of Mendoza and down into the province of Neuquen where it passes by the town of Zapala and west on to the popular city of San Carlos de Bariloche in the Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi. Farther south it leads via the pretty town of El Bolson and Esquel, close to the Parque Nacional Los Alerces. From here the road continues south to the tiny town of Perito Moreno near Lago Buenos Aires and Los Antiguos on the border with Chile. It’s now largely unpaved and passes the mining town of Gobernador Gregores, and Lago Viedma and Lago Argentino in the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares which is not far from another popular tourist town El Calafate. The road carries on south to the Chilean border where it turns east towards Rio Gallegos and finally on to Cabo Virgenes and its landmark lighthouse on the shores of the Atlantic.

Advice for the Road
By far the most comfortable way of travelling the Ruta 40 is in a four-wheel drive vehicle and it's worth taking note of the following advice:
►Refuel whenever possible and take a spare fuel container or two. It’s not unheard of to arrive at that long-awaited petrol station only to find there is none.
►On gravel road, of which there is a lot particularly in the south, take care. It’s very easy to lose control if you drive too fast. If you feel the car sliding take your foot off the accelerator immediately and if you need to break do so slowly. And don’t over compensate with the steering wheel.
►On gravel sections, which are often wide, overtake with the utmost care and slow down for oncoming traffic. Stones tend to thrown up and travel downhill in low gear to avoid slipping.
►The winds, particularly in Patagonia are incessant and often tiring. Be careful when opening doors as they can so easily be wrenched off and slow down in accordance with the conditions.
►Strange as it may sound and on expanses of nothingness it’s possible to come across sheep which tend to dart in all sorts of directions on the approach of oncoming vehicles. Be warned.
►Headlights should always be on by law. Tyres should be in good condition and nighttime-driving should be avoided.

During the summer months buses operate fairly frequently on the section between Bariloche and El Calafate, otherwise services are limited. Some intrepid cyclists, who need to be highly organized and well equipped, cover parts of the route. Hitchhikers need to be patient as even in the summer months traffic can be minimal. As far as accommodation, there are estancias off the route but often the house is tens of kilometres from the road. If you see a patch of poplar trees, which act as a much-needed windbreak, in the distance, the main house will often be behind. In the province of Santa Cruz in southern Patagonia see www.estanciasdesantacruz.com